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An energy audit/rating  is a comprehensive home assessment. Often, to qualify for federal and state tax credits/deductions, the assessment must be performed by a BPI or RESNET certified auditor. These individuals are trained, and have passed exams to demonstrate their competency in building analysis by employing scientifically sound analytical procedures.*

The energy auditor will view your home as an entire system. Employing proven test methods and instruments, such as a blower door fan for air leakage, carbon monoxide and combustible gas detectors, thermometers, moisture and flow meters, perhaps an infrared camera and possibly a ductblower test, the 3-4 hour assessment will review each of the sub-systems in your house, which should include:

  • Insulation and air sealing (read more)
  • Heating, Ventilation, Air Conditioning (read more)
  • Water heating
  • Windows
  • Foundation, Framing, Roofing
  • Appliances and Lighting
  • Combustion Appliance Zone

   Blower Door Test


A detailed report results from the energy audit, outlining current energy consumption, air leaks, insulation levels, efficiency of the HVAC system, along with remedial measures to improve comfort, energy efficiency and reduce your operating costs. By implementing the recommendations, you will:

  • offset the cost of the audit through improved energy savings
  • enjoy increased home comfort and air quality in your home
  • be able to take advantage of available tax credits/deductions
  • improve the environment by consuming less energy

*Testing and recommendations are based on accepted building science principles as prescribed by one or more of the following organizations: The Building Performance Institute (BPI), the Residential Energy Services Network (RESNET), American Society of Heating and Refrigeration and Air Conditioning Engineers (ASHRAE)or the American Society for Testing and Materials(ASTM). All certified auditors listed on EnergyAudits.com have passed at least one of the exams offered by BPI or RESNET.

 

INSULATION: HOW MUCH, WHERE, AND WHICH TYPE?

Insulation is often the best energy investment for your home. As the amount of insulation increases, your cost to heat/cool your home will decrease. Certified energy professionals are trained to be able to recommend the following: where you need insulation, how much you need, and which type is right for your home. Go to Find an Auditor to locate a professional in your area.

How much insulation should you have?

Insulation is measured by “R-value”, which refers to it’s resistance to heat flow through it. The majority of homes have too little insulation, particularly older homes where the insulation will have settled/compacted over been moved aside over time. The R-value of an area, such as a wall, includes both the insulation itself and the framing lumber. Thus the wall R-value will be lower than the insulation itself, because wood is not a good insulator.

Depending on where you live, the recommended R-values for various parts of your home will vary. The following table shows typical vs. recommended R-values (whole-wall R-value):

Type of home                             Attic                   Walls                   Floor                   Bsmt walls

Existing older home                  15                         9                            2                        0

Recommended in:

Cold Climate                               50                       30                          30                      20

Moderate Climate                     50                       21                          30                      12

Warm Climate                           50                       21                          19                      12

Ideal R-values                          60                       40                          40                      40

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Krigger & Dorsi, The Homeowner’s Handbook to Energy Efficiency. 2008.

What type of insulation is right for your home?

Your energy professional is best equipped to answer this question. For example, cellulose is an excellent, fairly inexpensive type of insulation, but because it will absorb and hold water up to 150% of its weight, this type of insulation may be a problem in climates with high humidity. Certified energy professionals have been trained in the correct type of insulation to recommend. Go to Find an Energy Auditor or Find an Energy Contractor to locate one in your area.

Typical choices will include:

Fiberglass batts, loose-fill, or dense-pack (R-value per inch varies from an average of 2.3-4.0)
     If batts are used, it is very important that they be installed according to building science principles,
     or you will not realize the anticipated R-value

Cellulose loose-fill or dense-pack (R-value per inch varies from an average of 3.2-3.4)
     Should only be installed where it can be kept dry.

Plastic Foam Panels (R-value per inch varies from an average of 4.1-5.0)

Expanded or extruded polystyrene foam board 
     Creates an air barrier; must be protected from exposure to sunlight outdoors and heat indoors

Polyurethane Spray Foam (R-value per inch varies from an average of 3.7 low density to 6.5 high density)
     More expensive; excellent when adhesion, moisture resistance, air-sealing and/or structural
     strength is needed

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HEATING YOUR HOME:

Before you purchase a new system, it is in your best interest to follow these steps in order:

  1. Have an energy audit performed on your home by a certified individual
  2. Air seal the areas indicated in the resulting energy audit report
  3. Add insulation as indicated in the report

Now you are ready to consider your options. Having air-sealed and insulated your home, it is possible/likely that you will be able to heat your home with a smaller system. It is very important that the system work with the duct size you currently have, so that airflow will be maximized throughout your home.

Furnaces can be compared by their AFUE (Annual Fuel Utilization Efficiency). The higher the AFUE, the greater the efficiency of the unit. The furnace in an older home typically has an AFUE of about 65-80%. The higher the AFUE of your new unit, the more expensive it will be; however, there are tax credits available!

Individuals are allowed a tax credit in an amount equal to 30% of the sum of:

The amount paid or incurred for qualified energy efficiency improvements, and
The amount paid or incurred for residential energy property expenditures.

The total amount of the credits allowed under Section 1121 of the American Recovery Act of 2009 shall not exceed $1,500 for any taxpayer for the years 2009 and 2010. The residence must be located in the U.S. and owned and used by the taxpayer as a primary residence.

TO QUALIFY, equipment must have the following ratings:

Natural gas furnace achieves an AFUE of 95% or higher
Propane furnace achieves an AFUE of 95% or higher

What will it save you? Typically, if you upgrade a 65% furnace to an 80%, you would save 10-15% of your current heating bill. Upgrading to a 90+ furnace will save 20-25% on your heating bill, and upgrading to the 95% will hopefully save you about 30%. These savings are based on following the initial steps outlined above: an energy audit, air-sealing and then insulation.

Ask an energy contractor to help you choose the right unit for your home. Your home energy auditor may be able to recommend someone to do the work for you, or you can look for a certified energy professional on our site, under Find a Contractor.

COOLING YOUR HOME:
This section will be updated in April 2010.

 
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